Brief History of the French Quarter
We cover a lot of local festivals and other events, as well as attractions and things to see, do, eat, and experience in the French Quarter and nearby. But, with the city’s 300-year-plus history, how did we get here? What transpired in those years, and who were the people who shaped the history of this amazing melting pot of a neighborhood? Let’s go over the complex history of the French Quarter.
Well, they don’t call this neighborhood the “old square” for nothing. The French Quarter was the original city of New Orleans, founded in 1718 by Jean-Baptiste Le Moyne de Bienville. Rampart Street is named as such because it once marked the actual city walls (or ramparts) of New Orleans. The city centered on Place d’Armes, now known as Jackson Square, was originally built as a military parade ground where criminals were hanged in public.
The name “French Quarter” is a bit of a misnomer; New Orleans was under Spanish rule from 1762 to 1802, and it was during this period that two huge fires (in 1788 and 1794) seared away much of the original architectural facade of the Quarter.
Thus, the buildings you see today retain more of a Spanish than French sensibility, as evidenced by wraparound balconies (which create a shady, breezy median space between the street and private residences — a useful architectural trick in hot, pre-AC New Orleans) and lush courtyards painted in bright colors, which form a reflective patina that wards off the sun.
The best example of actual French colonial architecture in the Quarter is the Old Ursuline Convent, which is also the oldest building in the Mississippi River Valley (built in 1752). With that said, the streets of the French Quarter are largely named in honor of French nobility — Burgundy, Chartres, and, yes, Bourbon.
If the French Quarter marks the original layout of New Orleans, then the original inhabitants were the Creoles, people of French, Spanish, and eventually mixed French and Spanish descent. That phenomenon is eloquently realized when one considers the names of two of the main buildings on Jackson Square: the (Spanish-origin) Cabildo and the (French-origin) Presbytère.
It is also worth noting that St. Louis Cathedral, which dominates Jackson Square, is the oldest continuously operating cathedral in the USA, and a fine example of French Colonial architecture in its own right.
Although the Creoles called the French Quarter home for many decades, they began moving out as the area became more depressed and ramshackle, especially in the early 20th century. That was when city officials shut down the vice in the red-light district of Storyville.
In response, the purveyors of sin crossed Rampart Street into the Quarter, and the Creoles moved out, to be gradually replaced by Italian immigrants. Later, also came the bohemians, attracted by the area’s undeniable architectural charms, as well as the members of the LGBTQIA+ community seeking tolerance.
In 1965 the Vieux Carré Historic District was established, allowing for the preservation of the Quarter’s historic character. The 1984 World’s Fair turned the Quarter into a bustling tourism destination, which was around the same time that many residents began leaving the neighborhood.
The Quarter tends to weather hurricanes and storms pretty well. Power lines are built underground, and the neighborhood itself was built on “high ground” (well, a few feet of elevation, but that’s enough) — which keeps it (mostly) immune from flooding. Today, while the Quarter is largely an area for tourists, thousands of residents still call it home.
If you’re planning a stay in New Orleans, be sure to check out our resource for French Quarter Hotels.
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Where to Stay in the French Quarter in 2025
The French Quarter is the heart of New Orleans and a testament to its colorful past, where cultures, music, cuisines, and history create an irresistible tapestry that is pure magic, with a dash of ’round the clock joie de vivre. And what better way to explore this one-of-a-kind place and one of the oldest neighborhoods in the U.S. than to stay right in the middle of the action?
These five boutique hotels are located in and near the French Quarter, so you’re never far from all that the neighborhood has to offer — whether you want to dance the night away to a brass band, take a stroll to take in the breathtaking architecture, or sample every Creole dish you come across.
You can explore the streets of the French Quarter to your heart’s content, and then enjoy the welcome respite from the bustle and relax by the pool, hit a happy hour, or grab a bite in one of the hotels’ bars and restaurants, or simply enjoy the view from your room or your balcony.
Hotel St. Marie
827 Toulouse Street
Hotel St. Marie serves up a classic French Quarter atmosphere with modern amenities. Its European-style decor delivers luxurious touches like chandeliers and period paintings. The meticulously restored exterior is lined with wrought-iron balconies overlooking the action, only half a block away from Bourbon Street and a mere four blocks from Jackson Square and the St. Louis Cathedral.
While Hotel St. Marie still retains its old-world charm, the bathrooms are outfitted with walk-in showers, and other modern amenities were updated. The tropically landscaped courtyard contains a saltwater pool and patio seating.
The on-site, elegant yet low-key Vacherie Restaurant & Bar is three in one: restaurant, bar, and cafe, which are all located next to one another on the first floor. The cafe serves breakfast staples plus snacks, salads, and things like sandwiches, perfect on the go or eaten at the bar. It’s open daily from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m. You can also hit the full bar from 3 p.m. to 11 p.m. The cafe’s menu is served nightly from 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. at the bar.
Standout features: European-style decor with luxurious touches; outdoor pool; tropical courtyard; on-site restaurant, bar, and cafe; recently renovated; half a block away from Bourbon Street.
French Market Inn
509 Decatur Street
French Market Inn is located on a busy block of Decatur Street, just steps away from the Mississippi Riverfront and within six blocks of renowned New Orleans attractions like Jackson Square, the French Market, the Audubon Aquarium and Insectarium, Bourbon Street, and Harrah’s New Orleans Casino. The hotel’s balconies, overlooking Decatur Street, offer great views of the river and the vibrant neighborhood.
This historic hotel boasts a serene, private stone-paved courtyard with a saltwater pool, a fountain, and a beautiful tropical garden. Its antique brick facade opens onto a lobby adorned with period paintings, chandeliers, and columns, with period details throughout the building.
Since this historic property dates back to the 18th century, every guest room has its distinct character. The first property records date as far back as 1722, and it was used in the past as a bakery and a family residence. In the early 1830s, the Baroness Pontalba y Almonaster bought the bakery and the surrounding lots and turned it into an inn. In 1832, the first hauntings were recorded, and to this day the hotel is considered to be haunted.
French Market Inn had undergone renovation in 2015. The on-site PJ’s Coffee has something fresh brewing daily, from 6 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Standout features: Property dates back to the 18th century; period details throughout, including antique brick facade and beamed ceilings in the guest rooms; outdoor saltwater pool; tropical courtyard; on-site cafe; central location a short walk away from the Mississippi Riverfront and blocks away from many French Quarter attractions.
Place d’Armes Hotel
625 St. Ann Street
Place d’Armes Hotel embodies old-world charm inside and out. It occupies two restored historic townhouses dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries, located on a quiet block of St. Ann Street, steps away from Jackson Square (which used to be called Place d’Armes, hence the name).
Guest rooms facing both the street and the courtyard have wrought-iron balconies, and feature exposed brick, conveying the traditional, old-world ambiance of the French Quarter. The hotel’s courtyard is particularly enchanting, showcasing a variety of tropical plants, fountains, and a saltwater pool under the magnolia trees.
Place d’Armes is a popular stop on haunted walking tours, due to the hauntings recorded there after the school burned down on the hotel’s site in the 1800s.
Standout features: Property dates back to the 18th century; central location right by Jackson Square; outdoor saltwater pool; stunning courtyard with patio seating; complimentary continental breakfast.
Prince Conti Hotel
830 Conti Street
The beautifully appointed Prince Conti Hotel sits in the heart of the New Orleans French Quarter and is just steps away from the non-stop party of Bourbon Street and the shopping and dining destinations of Canal and Royal Streets. It is housed in a historic 19th-century townhouse, which sports a carriageway and plenty of European charm.
Some of its rooms feature exposed brick and four-poster beds, and renovations were held to update the amenities and the interior’s rich colors and moldings, adding touches of opulence and the classic New Orleans charm. Despite its proximity to the 24/7 action right outside its windows, Prince Conti Hotel offers a quiet respite from it all, an oasis with an elegant yet relaxed vibe.
The on-site Cafe Conti has a casual breakfast and lunch menu from 7 a.m. to noon, with a focus on French and Creole cuisines. There you’ll find sweet and savory crepes, eggs Benedict, and local favorites like breakfast po-boy, shrimp and grits, and Croque Madame.
The Bombay Club & Martini Bistro is tucked away down the carriageway at the back of the Prince Conti Hotel. It has more than 50 specialty cocktails on the menu and although it specializes in martinis it also has an extensive selection of single malt scotches, ports, reserved bourbons, and premium cigars.
The Bombay Club is also a popular choice for the nightly local live music, including jazz and cabaret performances. The Bombay Club’s beautiful courtyard is the perfect spot to relax and unwind after a long day of sightseeing or exploring the city.
The food menu features a variety of gastropub items, New Orleans cuisine, and Indian-inspired dishes that play on the bar’s British theme. From classic pub fare like fish and chips to more exotic offerings like BBQ Sticky Ribs to charcuterie boards, there are plenty of globally inspired options. Whether you’re a cocktail connoisseur, a cigar aficionado, or simply looking for a great spot to enjoy some live music and good food, The Bombay Club is not to be missed.
Standout features: Central location and proximity to Canal and Bourbon Streets; historic European charm with luxurious touches like four-poster beds; on-site cafe serves breakfast and lunch; the on-site restaurant has a full bar and live music.
The Brakeman Hotel
501 Basin Street
The Brakeman is Valentino Hotels’ latest exciting boutique hotel located in Basin St. Station, the original Norfolk Southern Railway station (circa 1904), the last remaining train station in the city. It is nestled between the historic Tremé neighborhood, the romantic French Quarter, and the stunning St. Louis Cemetery #1.
This boutique hotel has 18 guest rooms that feature furniture and finishes that evoke the elegant trappings of the romantic railroad travel era. Amenities include in-room safes, on-site parking, walk-in showers, and 24-hour concierge service. Guests of the Brakeman can also enjoy all the amenities Basin St. Station has to offer, including cultural exhibits; a gift shop; the Basin St. Cafe with grab-and-go snack, breakfast, and lunch options; and the ATM in the lobby. Basin St. Café is open daily from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Perched atop the historic Basin St. Station, The Rooftop on Basin offers stunning views overlooking the French Quarter. The Salon and Terrace is a private event space and is not open to the public or guests of The Brakeman Hotel.
Standout features: Central location and proximity to the French Quarter and Treme; located in a historic building; on-site cafe and gift shop; stunning rooftop views.
All these hotels offer valet parking for a fee, plus complimentary WiFi access. Children age 12 and under stay for free. The pools are not open to the public (guests only, please). Another perk: When you’re a guest at any of Valentino Hotels you can access the pool at any other hotels.
We hope you enjoy staying with us at any of these historic boutique hotels!
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Suit Up for the Red Dress Run in New Orleans
All photos are courtesy of David Fary
You’d be tempted to call thousands of sprinting women and men kitted out like a Chris de Burgh single (“Lady in Red”) a drag race, but no. It’s a dress run. On the second Saturday of August — this year, that’s August 12, 2023 — the New Orleans Hash House Harriers (NOH3) are at it once again, hosting the annual New Orleans Red Dress Run.
The Event Details
Still going strong after more than two decades, the race draws in thousands of men and women aged 21 and older, who take to the French Quarter to showcase the color red in all of its glory (and let’s be honest, sometimes lack thereof).
This year, once again, the race assembles in Crescent Park around 9 a.m., with beer flowing and a DJ spinning. Late registration goes on until the start of the run (10 a.m.), which tends to finish in a crimson scrum of sweat and live music. Please note the earlier start time as the organizers are trying to get everyone moving before the serious heat descends. Admission for this event is $65. Day-of registration is cash only.
The two-mile race route is a closely guarded secret, but expect runners to jog/stumble/sprint through the Bywater and Marigny neighborhoods eventually making it into the French Quarter and back to the Crescent Park. Once the run is over at 11:30 a.m., lunch is served. The whole affair is over by 4 p.m.
Participants can pick up their event packets on the day of the event, but also on Thursday and Friday, from 4 to 8 p.m., at Deutsches Haus, 1700 Moss St. (Bayou St. John in Mid-City). Everyone needs to show ID and sign a liability waiver.
Tips for the Red Dress Run
Here are some pro tips we’ve collected over the years from repeat participants. New Orleans heat in August is no joke, so we hope you heed the advice to stay safe, hydrated, and have fun.
No one wants to be dragged down with a handbag, so consider investing in a fanny pack or a Ziploc bag “wallet” for phone cards and cash. Another option is to wear a dress that is tight up top so you can hold your phone, cash, card, and ID secure in the breast area (yes, this goes for guys too).
Just assume that it will be seriously hot, and a breathable pair of underwear is a good investment. We also recommend headbands and sweatbands that are good to wipe off moisture that’s your own and from others that are tipsy and bumping into you.
Remember, this is a long party with food, beer and music. Avoid rough sequins under the arms, because arm abrasion will rain on your parade really fast. If you are unsure, dance around the house with some bold arm movements to see if you’ve got the right stuff on top.
Some more race etiquette: Tie your shoes. The last thing you want is someone stepping on your laces and you, or them, falling. If you are going slowly, no worries, although a koozie might be a good idea as your drink will get hot, quickly.
About the Red Dress Run
The entire affair owes its existence to the remarkable efforts of the local chapter of Hash House Harriers, a club dedicated to running and drinking (many Hashers would flip those priorities). The club — a “Drinking Club with a Running Problem” — is international, and you can find a Hash/Run event in almost every country in the world. Proceeds from the event benefit different charities.
The calendar of runs is on the NOH3 website and membership is open to anyone over 21. All you need to do is show up.
Just remember, it takes more than putting on a red dress and tying off a few in the Quarter to be a part of this historic event. Don’t be a red dress rip-off — register to enjoy unlimited beer, food and music.
As mentioned above, the race route is secret, so follow the event on Facebook. For spectators looking to watch the action, the race “track” has always traversed Bourbon and Royal Street in the past, with a handful of beer stops along the route.
Need a hotel? To stay close to all the action, book a historic boutique hotel in the French Quarter at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels today!
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Must-See French Quarter Art Galleries
Photo courtesy of Frank Relle Photography on Facebook
Best known to visitors for her bars and restaurants, the French Quarter of New Orleans is also home to dozens of art galleries, constituting one of the greatest concentrations of studio space in the American South. In fact, the history and demographics that led to the Quarter becoming a hotbed of nightlife likely laid the foundation for its abundance of art galleries as well.
For decades, the Quarter’s historical buildings were seen as crumbling ruins. The confluence of creativity and cheap rents led to the arts taking hold in the Quarter, although said arts did not manifest as public gallery retail space in the beginning. The French Quarter was a bit too rough in her earlier days to accommodate a gallery scene, but as the neighborhood began offering more to visitors in the late 20th century, art spaces became a natural outgrowth of the local scene.
That’s not to ignore some truly steadfast art galleries that have held it down in the Quarter for what feels like ages. In any case, if you want to see local art, head to Royal Street, which is lined with galleries on multiple blocks. While it’s not as jam-packed as Royal, Chartres Street is also a mini mecca for art retail. Also, don’t miss the artists hawking their wares around the edges of Jackson Square, street artists throughout the Quarter, and Dirty Linen Night, an annual party that celebrates the Royal Street gallery scene.
Some notable local art galleries include:
Frank Relle Photography
910 Royal Street
One of the city’s most famous photographers, Frank Relle has made a career out of his love of New Orleans architecture, history, and light — or lack thereof, in the last case. Confused? Relle is best known for taking shots of New Orleans homes, buildings and street scenes late at night, using long exposures to create a singularly eerie (yet also oddly comforting, and always beautiful) micro genre of fine art photography.
Le Jardin
610/612 Royal Street
When we think of French Quarter art galleries, a place like Le Jardin often comes to mind. Effectively a narrow corridor that leads to a spacious dream of a Vieux Carre courtyard, all of the wall space in Le Jardin is crammed wall to groaning wall with the work of local artists. Much of the stuff you’ll see on display has a folk arty feel; the bright colors, bold presentation, locally focused subject matter and the general haphazard, slightly chaotic atmosphere of the place makes for an art experience that feels quintessentially New Orleans. While you’ll find original work here, there are plenty of prints as well. Also on site is Adorn, a local jewelry and crafts shop.
Gallery Burguieres
736 Royal Street
Ally Burguieres is passionate about both her art and the ethical treatment of animals, and has combined these interests into a gallery that is stuffed with paintings of animals. Some of these critters are engaged in almost anthropomorphic activities, and some are simply brought to life in a vibrant New Orleans color palette. You’ll also find art inspired by Alice in Wonderland and New Orleans street scenes. This gallery has many prints that can be purchased in lieu of original artwork; this may be a good idea if you have a kid (or kids) in tow, as children are often obsessed with Burguieres’ cute animal depictions.
Photo courtesy of Art of George Rodrigue on Facebook
Rodrigue Studios
730 Royal Street
George Rodrigue, a native song of south Louisiana, was best known as the creator of the “Blue Dog,” perhaps the most recognizable symbol of Louisiana contemporary art. The dog, with its soulful yellow eyes, was first painted in 1984 for Bayou, a selection of Louisiana ghost stories released in conjunction with the 1984 World’s Fair, held in New Orleans. Rodrigue decided to paint a version of the Cajun loup garou, or werewolf, and in so doing created the ghostly visage of the Blue Dog. At once approachable, mysterious and riotously colorful, the Blue Dog would go on to become, in the eyes of the public, a stand-in for Cajun culture and Louisiana as a whole and the vehicle for Rodrigue’s considerable commercial success.
Photo courtesy of Angela King Gallery on Facebook
Angela King Gallery
241 Royal Street
Many visitors pigeonhole New Orleans art as big, bright and made for tourists, but this is hardly the case at the Angela King Gallery, one of the best contemporary art galleries in the city. At any one time, the gallery showcases the work of up to 30 artists, whose talents range from oil paintings to mixed media to ink sketches. This is an extremely varied, diverse gallery, and a great stop for visiting (and local) art lovers.
Scene by Rhys
1036 Royal Street
This gallery is a fine base for local artist and all-around character Emile Rhys. A supremely talented artist, Rhys is best known for her fine art ink and pen drawings of the city’s local musicians. Her work, which synthesizes two great elements of New Orleans creativity — the sonic world of music and the frenetic energy of her visual art — is unique and singularly worthy of souvenir consideration.
Are you planning to spend some time in New Orleans soon? To stay close to all the action, book a historic boutique hotel in the French Quarter at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels today!
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French Quarter Shopping: The Best Perfumeries
New Orleans is often compared to a bewitching but temperamental woman. If that analogy is apt, then she’s also a perfumed one. From delicately fragrant honeysuckle and sweet olive to ghostly night-blooming cereus, floral scents hang heavy in New Orleans’ humid, subtropical air. They are as much a part of the city as pastel shotgun houses or the sound of a busker’s saxophone licks.
Although few senses are as subtle as the olfactory, the scent is also enormously evocative. Complex emotions and memories may be summoned from a whiff of freshly cut grass or hot apple pie. Why not include a bottle of perfume harnessing the essence of New Orleans among your souvenirs? You’ll make a fond memory when you purchase the perfume… and relive it every day when you apply it.
Bourbon French Parfums
805 Royal St.
Participate in a 180-year-old tradition when you browse for perfume at this quaint Royal Street shop. A specialist can custom-mix a unique fragrance tailored to your body chemistry, or you can take home a classic scent such as lilac, French lavender or musk. All perfumes are hand-mixed in small batches from natural ingredients.
Hové Perfumeur
434 Chartres St.
You’ll find a treasure trove of single-note floral perfumes at this elegant, high-ceilinged shop, some in distinctly old-fashioned scents like heliotrope and vetiver. There’s more to enjoy, though: bath salts, body powders, colognes, massage oil, and French-milled perfumed soaps. Tuck a beautifully wrapped bar in your luggage, and sweetly scented clothes will be your reward upon returning home. And get this: Founded in 1931, Hové is the oldest continuous perfumer manufacturer in New Orleans.
Lush
532 Royal St.
Yes, it’s a chain, but when the associates are this generous with samples and the product is both luxurious and eco-friendly, who can complain? Crafted in France of organic, vegetarian ingredients, each Lush perfume contains all-natural essential oils. Many feature coordinating lotions, soaps, shampoos, and bubble bars, so you can soak yourself in scent from head to toe. Spend an hour sampling the wares to see which suits you best.
Madame Aucoin Perfume
608 Bienville St.
Madame Aucoin was said to be the first female perfumer in New Orleans, who coined the term “The Paris of America” for her perfumery in the French Quarter. The current location of the shop is a modern reincarnation of her legacy in her former residence. The perfumery’s goal is a reformulation of Madame Aucoin’s original collection. This boutique perfumery is a must destination if you’re a fan of lesser-known French and other independent, niche brands both locally made and imported.
Tijon New Orleans
631 Toulouse St.
Tijon is definitely a luxury, unique experience as you’ll be handed a lab coat and a workbook so you can create your own perfume. There are over 300 oils available, and you can bottle and name your own. Should you want to reorder in the future, Tijon will retain your formula. Tijon also offers classes, its own signature perfumes, and the New Orleans-inspired collection.
Are you planning to spend some time in New Orleans soon? To stay close to all the action, book a historic boutique hotel in the French Quarter at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels today!
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Vintage Shopping in the French Quarter
Photo courtesy of Trashy Diva on Facebook
It’s often said that a stroll through the French Quarter is like stepping back in time. Whether you’re viewing 18th-century buildings like the St. Louis Cathedral, or taking in 1940s-era music at a jazz club, it’s easy to feel transported to a different era. So why not dress to fit the theme? The Vieux Carre offers a host of vintage and vintage-inspired boutiques bursting with unique garments and accessories. There’s not much better than a wearable, one-of-a-kind souvenir — unless it’s the knowledge that vintage clothing is both timeless and eco-friendly. Here are a few must-stop vintage shops in the Quarter.
Dollz & Dames
216 Decatur St.
A funky retro-inspired boutique not unlike Trashy Diva, Dollz & Dames sells vintage-inspired clothing, shoes and accessories. (You can’t miss its eye candy of a storefront on an otherwise sleepy side of the block.) In addition to vintage- and retro-inspired stuff, there’s some true vintage and repurposed merch. It’s a treasure trove.
Lost and Found
323 Chartres St.
The same goes for Lost and Found, if you’re looking for some fun retro/pinup scores. The shop has plus sizes, accessories, kids’ clothes, costume bits like tutus petticoats, jewelry, socks, and much more.
Trashy Diva
537 Royal St. (also has a location Uptown at 2048 Magazine St.)
Launched in 1996 by owner Candice Gwinn as a vintage clothing shop, Trashy Diva gradually transitioned to become a purveyor of new, vintage-inspired clothing that takes its design cues from the 1920s, ’30s, ‘40s, and ‘50s. All the clothing is locally designed by Gwinn in New Orleans and manufactured in her private warehouse in China — so the light fabrics, vivid colors and dramatic prints are ideally suited to the local climate and traditions. (For example, a cotton voile sundress in a Mardi Gras-inspired print is a hot seller). The dresses are flattering and classic enough to warrant the investment. Available in sizes 0 through 24, they’ll be part of your wardrobe for years to come.
Are you planning to spend some time in New Orleans soon? To stay close to all the action, book a historic boutique hotel in the French Quarter at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels today!
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5 Essential New Orleans Record Stores
LA Music Factory photo by Infrogmation of New Orleans on Flickr
Yes, you could fire up Spotify to stream your favorite New Orleans musicians — but the warmth, crackle and hiss of vinyl has so much more personality. (Not to mention that the beautifully designed sleeves can double as wall art.) Sometimes, music is best experienced both as an auditory and tangible product. For those times, here are a few standout record stores. You might just bring home a great souvenir — or discover a new favorite artist while flipping through the crates.
Euclid Records
3301 Chartres Street
This two-story, 4,000-square-foot music mecca in Bywater hosts frequent free in-store performances and movie nights. You can also sell your old CDs and LPs here.
Louisiana Music Factory
421 Frenchmen Street
Why not shop for music in the middle of a music district? You’ll find new and used records by local and national recording artists, T-shirts, music gear, magazines, and so much more.
No Pulp Records
228 Decatur Street
Located on the third floor of Beckham’s Bookshop in the heart of the French Quarter, No Pulp Records is well organized and is a must-stop for New Orleans-centric vinyl. The bookstore is a must-stop by itself, too.
Peaches Records
4318 Magazine Street
You’ll find this family-owned shop Uptown. The 15,000-square-foot store has a plethora of LPs, EPs, CDs, cassettes, merch, T-shirts, and miscellaneous gifts, including prayer candles.
The Mushroom
1037 Broadway Street
An Uptown mainstay for college students since 1970, this record store/head shop is dusty, incense-scented, and crammed with crates of records. It’s a pleasant way to while away an afternoon.
Are you planning to spend some time in New Orleans soon? To stay close to all the action, book a historic boutique hotel in the French Quarter at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels today!
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Cigars and the Good Life in the French Quarter
Photo by Trevor Mark
Cigars may not be native to Louisiana, but they have certainly taken firm root in the city’s celebrated culture of indulgence. The traditional finale to a rich meal, the cigar is also used to mark an important event such as the birth of a child or the completion of a big business deal. It’s no surprise then that a city that loves its fine cuisine and is willing to launch into boisterous celebration on the smallest pretext should prove a welcoming home for the cigar.
On A Roll
A fine cigar, after all, is to a common smoke as a bowl of dark, rich gumbo is to a can of soup: incomparably finer and more lavish. It’s also a handcrafted product made by artisans, rather than a mass-produced commodity, as one visit to the Cigar Factory (415 Decatur St.) will demonstrate vividly.
In a bustling atmosphere fueled by meringue music and the ever-present aroma of just-lit cigars, a team of cigar makers works rapidly and with a focus on a line of rustic wooden booths, rolling the establishment’s proprietary blends as visitors look on. Turning a pile of tobacco into a properly formed, appropriately aged and carefully maintained cigar is a long process, and each step is on display here, from the rolling table to the aging room to the walk-in humidor. The Cigar Factory operates a second location closer to the all-night action on Bourbon Street (206 Bourbon St.), which is open much later.
If you’re in a classy mood, The Bombay Club — all wood paneled handsomeness and stately atmosphere — treats guests to an excellent humidor and gorgeous courtyard. Couple your stogie with some scotch or a cognac, and you’ve got the ingredients for a perfect al fresco New Orleans evening.
Many cigar aficionados have brand loyalty and are only willing to stray from their favorites for so long. The French Quarter has several tobacconists offering large selections from well-known cigar makers, as well as specialty cigarettes and pipe tobacco.
For example, the Crescent City Cigar Shop (730 Orleans Ave.) looks and functions much like the cigar shops visitors are likely familiar with from home. Much more exotic, however, is the retail experience at Reverend Zombie’s House of Voodoo (723 St. Peter St.), where altars of religious statuary, ritual totems, candles, and other curios share shop space with a wide selection of cigars and other tobacco products.
Most of the cigar shops also sell smoking accessories, from utilitarian cigar cutters to beautiful humidors. But a stop at M.S. Rau (630 Royal St.), gives a unique historical perspective to just how seriously the cigar culture was regarded in the gilded age and earlier. This immense antique mecca boasts a collection of cigar-smoking accessories, including some crafted by renowned makers such as Tiffany, Faberge and Cartier.
Often made from gold and sterling and sometimes even encrusted with gemstones, these antiques can command kingly sums. For much less treasure, however, visitors might well feel like kings and queens themselves with a fine cigar in hand strolling under the balconies and moon of a French Quarter evening.
Where to Find Cigars in the New Orleans French Quarter
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- Cigar Factory New Orleans (415 Decatur Street)
- Crescent City Cigar Shop (730 Orleans Avenue)
- Cuban Creations Cigar Bar (533 Toulouse Street)
- Don Leoncio Cigars Bar (430 Canal Street)
- La Habana Hemingway Cigars (522 Bourbon Street)
- Ra Shop French Quarter (733 Toulouse Street, 1201 Decatur Street)
- Reverend Zombie’s House of Voodoo (723 St. Peter St.)
- The Bombay Club (830 Conti Street)
Are you planning to spend some time in New Orleans soon? To stay close to all the action, book a historic boutique hotel in the French Quarter at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels today!
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Shopping for Discovery and Surprise
Photo by Infrogmation of New Orleans
In the battle against strip malls and generic chain operations, it seems like the merchants of New Orleans’ French Quarter can claim victory. Personality and individuality prevail here, and diverse, often family-owned and operated retail establishments line the neighborhood streets, allowing for a shopping experience that simply can’t be replicated anywhere else.
Raucous Variety
In the Quarter you’ll find an exhaustive wealth of American and European antique and contemporary furniture; paintings, sculpture, drawings, and every other artistic medium imaginable; local and regional crafts; and clothing galore, including custom-designed gowns, off-the-rack designer numbers, vintage couture, decadent lingerie, custom millinery, and hip, trendy, street-wear.
All manner of new, used and rare books and music are offered in shops ranging from the expansive to the closet-esque. Cooks can placate their passions at century-old grocery stores cum delicatessens, comprehensive kitchen shops and general stores offering hard-to-find regional foodstuffs.
The six-by-twelve block space that is the French Quarter is the special soil that generates this unique retail environment. Plan at least one full day of leisurely browsing and digging when shopping in the Quarter. A comfortable pair of shoes, an open mind and an open schedule will be of great benefit. While a large sum of cash is also nice to have, window shoppers and curiosity seekers will not be disappointed either.
Photo by Trevor Mark
Of Ports and Pedigrees
New Orleans’ age, distinct European heritage, and status as a major port city have made it a favorite destination for collectors. The concentration of elegant antique shops lining Royal Street is highly reputable establishments often run by third- and fourth-generation family members who are eager to educate on the pedigree and history of their goods. The life span of the establishments is reflected in the exceptional range of their international stock of fine objects d’art, jewels and antiquities. The sheer number of shops also translates into bargaining power for the consumer.
Two blocks from Royal Street, Decatur Street, by comparison, is at once both trendy and bohemian. Its boutiques sell unique costumes as well as vintage clothing and accessories befitting screen queens.
Literally and figuratively, Chartres Street is somewhere in between. Chic, locally-owned shoe and clothing boutiques and shops offering custom-designed jewelry coexist on the same block with contemporary art galleries, and oddities shops stocked to meet the demand for things like Civil War musket balls and fashion repurposed from cork.
The French Quarter supports numerous bookstores representing all manner of interests with a strong bent toward local and regional writers, both modern and classic. Like other retail establishments in the neighborhood, the majority of the bookshops offering used, rare and collectible books are independently owned.
Back of the Quarter
The French Market at the back of the Quarter is a fun place to shop for a dinner party, peruse local cookbooks, or dig for bargains from all corners of the world. A collection of small shops extends from the front of the complex at Decatur and St. Ann Streets back to Ursuline Street.
Until the late 19th century Choctaw vendors sold herbs and medicinal plants at the site of the French Market, which extends from Ursuline Street back to Governor Nicholls Street. The Spanish erected the first enclosed market here in 1782, where fresh meat, poultry, produce, game, seafood, baked goods, spices, seasonings, fruit, and live plants are now sold.
The flea market is part of the French Market. It extends from Governor Nicholls Street back to Barracks Street. Some vendors hustle here every day, but weekends are particularly lively, and anything you can imagine can be bought here, from notable local artists and jewelry designers to importers of fine international crafts to folks selling the contents of their grandmother’s attic (as well as mass-produced junk). These independent vendors expect you to bargain for their “best” deal. Sometimes you get it. Sometimes you don’t. Usually, you leave feeling amused.
Are you planning to spend some time in New Orleans soon? To stay close to all the action, book a historic boutique hotel in the French Quarter at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels today!
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French Quarter Shopping: One-of-a-Kind Stores
French Market. Photo by Selena N.B.H. on Flickr
Shopping in the French Quarter runs a long gamut of opportunities: from high-end chain retail at Canal Place to magical-spell components at a voodoo-for-tourists shop located down a small back alleyway. You’ll find just about every version of retail therapy in the Quarter, but the options are fairly tremendous, and it helps to be able to narrow the clutter of choices down. One bonus: Staying in a French Quarter hotel, which gives you pedestrian access for all your shopping needs.
Boutique du Vampyre
709 St. Ann Street
Hey — vampires gotta shop too, right? And when they do, they come to Boutique du Vampyre, which bills itself as the only vampire shop in the country. Whether that’s true or not, this shop is a unique experience unto itself, run by the city’s six-foot queen of vampires, the German-born Marita Jaeger. What does a vampire buy? Well, there are capes and cloaks, but there’s also Transylvanian hot sauce (hmmm), books on vampirism and general goth-y gift stuff.
Chiwawagaga
511 Dumaine Street
When we say there’s a store for every need in the French Quarter of New Orleans, we’re not kidding, and no shop in the city exemplifies this truth like Chiwawagaga, a self-proclaimed “small store for dinky dogs.” You read that right: This shop is dedicated to small-breed dogs (and their owners), and is stocked with costumes that will fit perfectly on your pet chihuahua, Maltese, terrier, etc. Ever wanted to see a dachshund in a hot dog outfit? This is the place. As one might guess, this store is all the rage in the weeks leading up to Barkus, the carnival pet parade.
Crescent City Books
124 Baronne Street
Our other favorite spot in the Quarter for the written word, Crescent City Books feels like the sort of shop a kid walks into before being transported to some magical world. It’s dusty, but it’s the best kind of dusty — the dusty of a used bookstore where every title is well beloved, carefully curated and waiting to be discovered by a lucky customer, which we’re hoping is you.
Faulkner House Books
624 Pirate’s Alley
There is no shortage of fantastic independent bookstores in New Orleans; it pains us that we only have room for two of them here. Faulkner House, a cozy book of a bookshop (isn’t that always the best kind?) is a beloved institution, located in a building where its namesake once rented rooms back in 1925. The shop is stuffed with literature representing a wide swath of genres, and it becomes a major focal point for visitors who are in town for the annual Tennessee Williams Literary Festival.
Fifi Mahony’s
934 Royal Street
You’re in New Orleans. You need a costume. You have to look fabulous. This isn’t Kansas, Dorothy — no “Thing 1” or “I’m a Nurse” or “John’s Crazy Bachelor Party” t-shirt is going to cut it. So do as the locals do and get a real wig and some off-the-wall accoutrement to accompany it at Fifi’s. Let’s be very clear, though: Don’t come here expecting to get away with some lame feather boa and cheap wig combo. This is the shop of choice for many of the area’s most creative costumers, drag queens, theater professionals, makeup artists, etc. You’ll get a fitted artifact of awesome fashion expression at Fifi’s, and you will rock it.
French Market
1235 N. Peters Street
The French Market is as much a tourist attraction as it is a shopping destination, but you can certainly buy stuff here. What that “stuff” is depends on your taste — there are plenty of tatty souvenir trinkets, belts with big fleur-de lis-buckles, cheap sunglasses and fake gator heads, but you can also find African prints, handcrafted art objects and local crafts. We’re not passing judgment on any of the above — the point is, walking around the Market is fun, and as much of a travel experience as buying something here.
Lejardin
612 Royal Street
You’re spoiled for choice when it comes to art galleries on Royal Street (let alone the French Quarter), and while we don’t have time to explore every individual art gallery in this piece, we do want to highlight Lejardin, which is an excellent storefront that gathers locally made arts, crafts, picture frames, jewelry, and other goodies. Besides boasting a plum location, the shop also has a gorgeous courtyard, stuffed with a nicely curated selection of local art. A perfect shop for a New Orleans-made souvenir.
Louisiana Music Factory
421 Frenchmen Street
We’re cheating a little bit here, as the Music Factory is technically in Faubourg Marigny, just outside of the French Quarter. But whatever — if you’re in town looking for local music to take home, it is imperative you stop by LMF, which boasts an inordinately large selection of CDs, albums and concert ephemera from one of the most musically important states in the country.
Lucullus Antiques
610 Chartres Street
You can’t walk without tripping over an antique store in the French Quarter; what sets Lucullus apart is its selection of culinary antiques, ranging from dishes to flatware to copper pots and pans that seem to have emerged from the mists of time. There are plenty of other antiques for sale as well, but we have a lot of love for Lucullus’ focus on selling the sort of goods that are intimately associated with our city’s rich culinary heritage.
Santa’s Quarters
1025 Decatur Street
We’re not trying to sound like Grinches here, but it’s a little baffling how Santa’s Quarters stays in business for 11 months out of the year. Because when you come in here, it is all Christmas, all the time. OK, let’s be fair: There’s actually a fair amount of Carnival accoutrement as well, plus some odd artifacts from Cajun country, but look, when you name your store “Santa’s Quarters,” there’s an ideal you’re living up to, and this spot does not disappoint. There are nutcrackers, Santa statues, bits of tinsel, ornaments, and every accent and oddity one associates with the holiday season in this store. And, even in the sweltering heat of a New Orleans summer, they’re playing Christmas carols in here without fail.
The Quarter Stitch
629 Chartres Street
A lot of people pass The Quarter Stitch without a second look, but there’s a certain kind of person who enters this store and basically loses their mind. The Stitch is made by and for those who are obsessed with knitting (on that note, if you read the name of the place and laughed, you’re likely one of those folks who would lose their minds in here). Also a great spot for almost any kind of art and crafting supplies, and meeting the sort of locals who will sink a lot of time into both creating a new hat and a cool DIY Mardi Gras costume.
Voodoo Authentica
612 Dumaine Street
For what it’s worth, we need to point out that voodoo is a real religion in New Orleans, and its practitioners are no more scary or outlandish than the worshippers of any other faith. Most of those who hew to voodoo celebrate the “magic” side of the religion with the occasional lit candle and prayer. With that said, most people in the city understand there is a “marketable” side of voodoo that appeals to tourists, and Voodoo Authentica does a good job of selling this sort of “commercial voodoo” while also being run by friendly folk who are happy to tell you about how the religion functions. We also give this shop credit for being a cool combo of clean, cozy and extremely colorful. They also give local artists and practitioners a presence by selling their art and crafts and offering readings.
Happy shopping!
