The Irish Pubs of the French Quarter
The French Quarter, despite its name, has quite a bit of Irish blood running through it.
Like old port cities of the East Coast, New Orleans saw a huge influx of Irish people in the 19th century, and for a time the Celtic brogue was heard as commonly on the streets here as the Creoles’ Francophone dialect. Both those mother tongues have assimilated into the modern New Orleans accent, but one contribution of the Irish to French Quarter culture is indelible and indispensable to this day: the pub.
As is true wherever they are found, Irish pubs serve as local watering holes and gathering spots for friends in the French Quarter. While the karaoke joints and dance clubs and theme bars shake, rattle and roll, these pubs are bastions of camaraderie and good cheer, places for locals to unwind after a shift, and for visitors to sit back and observe New Orleanians in their natural element.
The pubs are often found literally in the shadows of flashier establishments. There’s Molly’s Irish Pub (732 Toulouse St. — not to be mistaken for Molly’s at the Market, below!), for instance, an attractive, understated barroom of soft brick and polished woodwork the color of burnt sugar housed in an old Creole cottage. Regulars perch themselves on window sills or along the bar, while just outside the howls, chants and yelps of Bourbon Street are clearly audible and occasionally drown out the jukebox.
Erin Rose (811 Conti St.) offers a similarly dramatic transformation of the setting by taking just one step up and inside. Bourbon Street, in all its bead-flinging, feather boa-strewn glory, is merely two doors away, but Erin Rose seems like it’s in a whole different neighborhood — one where drink prices take a sharp turn downward and local color amps up pleasingly. Regulars make a clubhouse of the place, installing themselves at the bar with the predictability of a professor’s office hours.
Music: Traditional and Otherwise
In a city famous for its jazz and R&B, a handful of musically-inclined pubs provide a welcome alternative for fans of acoustic music and singer-songwriter genre.
Kerry Irish Pub (331 Decatur St.) hosts live music seven nights a week (traditional Irish music and acoustic harmonizing are well represented). With a street reputation for pouring the best pint of Guinness in the Vieux Carré, many an innocent Decatur Street stroll has been cut short by a stop inside this hospitable pub.
Have a Pint, Spin a Yarn
The entertainment provided by other French Quarter pubs is entirely in the hands of fellow patrons and passersby.
Just down the street from the Kerry is Ryan’s Irish Pub (241 Decatur St.), an unassuming picture of tranquility during the day but something else altogether at night. Fitted out with cozy booths and a beautiful antique bar, the pub can get quite lively after sundown depending on which nationally touring acts are performing at the adjacent House of Blues and the temperament of the crowd those acts draw to the neighborhood.
Those with the gift of gab will find a stable of regulars with plenty of stories to swap at Fahy’s Irish Pub (540 Burgundy St.), where a decidedly locals’ scene develops after restaurants and other bars begin cutting their shifts for the night. The popular drink at Fahy’s is a local version of the “mind eraser,” a sweet vodka concoction served in a pint glass and slurped quickly by two or more people simultaneously through straws in a race to the bottom. Pool is very popular here, as evidenced by the rows of small, wooden lockers for regulars to stow their personal pool cues and gear.
And if you find yourself at Molly’s at the Market (1107 Decatur St.) any day or night without an interesting yarn to share with a total stranger, just wait around a bit and you will likely witness the makings for a worthy story to tell the next time around. It’s hard to imagine a more variegated bar crowd anywhere than the one that develops at Molly’s, located just around the corner from the French Market.
For years, Molly’s served as the de facto press club for New Orleans, and journalists, political hopefuls and other local notables have spent honorary shifts behind the bar pouring drinks for their friends and critics alike. Every night, the place fills with a crowd of fops, bards, fancy ladies, punks, bankers, artists, students, tourists, and those best described as “open to suggestion.”
If for some reason, this social cocktail doesn’t spark things up for you, there’s always inspiration to be found in the collection of French Quarter stories and memories enshrined on the walls and behind the bar, which includes Molly’s founder, the late Jim Monaghan. His ashes have been interred in a place of honor above the bar ever since his jazz funeral disbanded outside the pub’s doors in 2001.
We’d also like to add these two Irish bars to the French Quarter lineup since this article has been written:
731 St. Peter St.
Tucked into a brick hideaway between Royal and Bourbon streets across from Preservation Hall, this intimate Irish pub was named after a movie that runs on the loop on the TV inside the bar (don’t worry, there’s a good jukebox too). The famously friendly bartenders serve Guinness and local beer on tap, as well as Irish car bombs. The prices are very, very good — so think of Boondock Saints as your perfect getaway from the 24/7 party happening just steps away on Bourbon St.
717 St. Peter St.
Another low-key Irish bar on the same block, Finnegan’s Easy is long, narrow, and more crowded, but with ample capacity to handle it thanks to its spacious courtyard. You could tell it caters more to the visitors as it serves as a stop on some of the walking tours in the French Quarter. Finnegan’s features sports on TV and cheerfully serves Irish grub along with more American fare, like wings. The drink menu also varies from the local beer on tap to Mai Tais and Hurricanes.
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The Best Happy Hours in the French Quarter
Finding world-class food and expertly crafted cocktails at beyond-reasonable prices is easy enough in New Orleans on any day, but who can resist the lure of trying the best cocktails this city has to offer at a deep discount, along with some refined bar food compressed to a bite size and a small plate?
In New Orleans, happy hours tend to start a little earlier and stretch a little longer. And, beyond the obvious pleasure of socializing and unwinding they provide, happy hours are a surefire way to sample the restaurant’s cuisine or bask in a place’s ambiance — at a fraction of the price.
The French Quarter-based bars and restaurants we recommend below take it up a notch in terms of the quality of the ingredients; the inventiveness of the dishes and the cocktails; the bargain factor compared to the regular price you’d pay for the same outside the happy hour; and, of course, the level of expertise that goes into the preparation.
You could order the “3-4-1” specials on Bourbon Street, but these deals generally prioritize booze quantity over quality. Fortunately, if you’re willing to venture outside of peak drinking hours, the world is your oyster (sometimes literally, as some places offer oyster-centric happy hours).
These guys below are serious about what goes into every glass and onto every small plate, and about who gets to make it and serve it. Cheers!
Broussard’s
819 Conti Street
Happy hour 3-6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday
Broussard’s happy hour can be enjoyed at the restaurant’s Empire Bar and courtyard. The $5 cocktails include French 76, Pimms Cup, and Hurricane, plus Broussard’s own signature creations. You can also enjoy #3 beer and $4 wine. The bar menu of small plates, available Wednesday through Saturday, is elevated takes on oysters, gumbo, turtle soup, crab cakes, and other classics.
Kingfish
337 Chartres Street
Happy hour 2-5 p.m. Monday through Friday
To paraphrase Huey P. Long, who called himself the Kingfish, every man is a king during happy hour. You can get $4 draft beer, $6 wine, and $7 cocktails. The $9 small plates join the party (think gumbo, cracklins, and boudin balls).
Kingfish keeps it somewhat traditional with its focus on Louisiana cuisine like seared Gulf fish and gumbo, and classic cocktails like the Sazerac, Vieux Carré, and Mint Julep. The cocktail menu also goes beyond those with quite a few signature drinks. There’s a valiant effort to support local wineries, distilleries, and breweries, so Kingfish is a good choice to sample these Louisiana products at happy hour prices. The pressed-tin ceilings, large windows and brick walls give Kingfish an appealingly antiqued vibe.
The Bombay Club
830 Conti Street
Happy hour 4-7 p.m. Wednesday through Sunday
The Bombay Club inside the Prince Conti Hotel has more than 50 specialty cocktails on the menu. Happy hour features select $3 beer, $4 wine, and a $5 drink specials. The small plates are fresh takes on Cajun and European comfort food: meat pies, gumbo, grilled naan, and ploughman’s board. Come for the martinis, and stay for live music!
The Roost Bar at Brennan’s
417 Royal Street
Happy hour 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. Thursday through Monday
Brennan’s elegant Roost Bar emphasizes the bubbles for its happy hour, with premium bottles and half bottles available at special prices, plus several specialty champagne-centered cocktails for $9 each, complemented by the bar menu in the $8-$18 range. The bar food includes crispy shrimp, pommes frites, and other takes on elevated Creole cuisine. There’s also champagne sabering at 5 p.m. in the lush courtyard, which is a sight to behold in itself.
Vacherie
827 Toulouse Street
Happy hour 3-6 p.m. daily
Vacherie’s restaurant, bar, and cafe are located next to one another on the first floor of Hotel St. Marie. Vacherie serves authentic Cajun cuisine with a few inventive twists. The $8 bar menu (4-6 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday) includes a slider of the day special, a chicken waffle, boudin balls, loaded fries, and more. To drink, $6 will get you a rum punch, a glass of any of the house wines, a cocktail like vodka soda or G&T, or a draft beer flight (three half-pints of your choice).
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Where to Dine During Lent Season in New Orleans
Tujague’s Crab Cake Benedict. Image by Sam Hanna.
Now, with Lenten season upon us (February 22 – April 6, 2023), some of New Orleans’ top restaurants are offering tasty and Lent-friendly dishes and specials. From Fish Fry Fridays at Mister Mao and seafood specialties at Compere Lapin to crawfish cakes at Birdy’s and house-made pasta at Jack Rose, restaurants are offering something for every palate. Check out our top picks of the Lent specials at New Orleans restaurants.
Bakery Bar
1179 Annunciation Street
The intimate eatery serving savory dishes is offering guests blackened tilapia tacos — three corn tortilla tacos served with squash, zucchini salad and patacones, plus moules mariniere — mussels steamed with banana leaves and candied oranges in white-wine cream sauce.
Birdy’s
1320 Magazine Street
Birdy’s serves up Southern-inspired, locally-sourced American cuisine. For Lent, try the crawfish cake — pepper jack cheese, crab boil aioli, dill slaw, and apple cider vinaigrette; or smoked salmon toast — whipped cream cheese, apricot marmalade, grapefruit, dijon vinaigrette, and smoked trout roe, with a farm salad.
Compere Lapin
535 Tchoupitoulas Street
For Lent, Compere Lapin, Chef Nina Compton’s award-winning restaurant located in the lobby of the funky boutique Old No. 77 Hotel in the Warehouse Arts District, offers a variety of seafood specialties including a crawfish roll on a milk bun with shrimp-fat aioli and celery salad; broiled shrimp with Calabrian butter; and scialatielli pasta with Gulf shrimp and butternut squash.
Jack Rose
2031 St. Charles Avenue
The culinary crown jewel of the Pontchartrain Hotel, Jack Rose brings an eclectic and exciting dining experience to New Orleans’ Garden District. For Lent season, relish in a variety of specials created by Chef/Owner Brian Landry including crabmeat mac ‘n’ cheese; bucatini verde (a type of pasta); gnocchi with shrimp; and squid ink campanelle (also a type of pasta).
Mister Mao
4501 Tchoupitoulas Street
Throughout the Lenten season, Mister Mao will be hosting Fish Fry Fridays. Each Friday during dinner, Chef/Owner Sophina Uong will offer fried masa harina fish with spicy shrimp in coconut milk sauce, red palm oil, and fresh coriander served with seasonal sides.
The Bower
1320 Magazine Street
Culinary darling The Bower will offer roasted Gulf shrimp and mushrooms (lion’s mane and chestnut mushrooms) with parmesan, orange compound butter, and miso broth; and the Gulf fish served with crispy basmati rice, mushrooms, lobster and tomato broth, citrus, and arugula salad.
Toups Meatery
845 N. Carrollton Avenue
While Chef Isaac Toups might be known for the melt-in-your-mouth meats that he serves at his Mid-City restaurant, the author of Chasing the Gator: Isaac Toups and the New Cajun Cooking has been fishing and crabbing since he was a toddler. For Lent, Chef Toups is featuring LA jumbo lump crab Nicoise salad with pickled green beans, spicy fingerling potatoes, olives, pickled quail, and boquerones vinaigrette; couvillion (a family recipe) with Louisiana Gulf fish, crab and crab-fat rice; and marinated crab claws with coconut lime vinaigrette and pickled pineapple.
Tujague’s
429 Decatur Street
The second oldest restaurant in New Orleans and the third oldest continuously operating restaurant in the U.S. invites guests to enjoy the seared Louisiana crab cake served with a bourbon corn sauce; and shrimp and grits — pan-seared Gulf shrimp simmered in a New Orleans-style BBQ sauce, served over stone ground grits.
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Mardi Gras Parade Schedule 2020
Note: We will update this post for 2024 as it gets closer to the Mardi Gras 2024 season.
For the best views in the city, consider purchasing grandstand tickets to this year’s parades from New Orleans Parade Tickets.
One of the best parties in the world is here! The Carnival season kicks on Twelfth Night or the Epiphany, with three parades. It will culminate as usual on Mardi Gras Day, which this year falls on February 25, 2020.
Here’s the rundown of this year’s parades that will roll in February and through Fat Tuesday in the city of New Orleans.
Saturday, February 1, 2020
Intergalactic Krewe of Chewbacchus, 7:00 PM (Bywater, Marigny)
The Intergalactic Krewe of Chewbacchus will walk-n-roll with yet another sci-fi theme and the usual menagerie of the mythical creatures, space monsters, movie characters, and lots and lots of Princess Leias. The krewe hasn’t capped the membership, at least not yet, so expect a long procession of walking sub-krewes (there are over 150 to date with over 1,000 members) with out-of-this-world floats and other creatively decorated contraptions that include bikes, trailers, and even shopping carts. The krewe eschews using petroleum products, preferring greener methods to power their floats. Most throws are also handmade, including the custom bead medallions, stuffed animals, and the Sacred Drunken Wookiee stickers. Chewbacchus starts and ends in the Bywater, on Press and Chartres streets, spending the bulk of the parade walking down the 11 blocks of St. Claude Avenue.
Friday, February 7, 2020
Krewe Bohème, 7 PM (Bywater, Marigny, French Quarter)
This new marching parade, started in 2019, rolls though the Bywater, Marigny and French Quarter, led by a Green Absinthe Fairy (in place of the usual king and queen) and followed by several inner krewe marching clubs, including Krewe of Goddesses, the Merry Antoinettes, the Bayou Babes, and Glambeaux.
Saturday, February 8, 2020
Krewe du Vieux, followed by Krewedelusion, 6:30 PM (Marigny, French Quarter)
Note: These parades may not be suitable for children.
Krewe du Vieux (KDV) is infamous for its biting political satire, adult themes and irreverent takes on the city’s daily struggles. Its 17 sub-krewes are mostly the walking kind, interspersed with the small-scale floats and some of the best brass bands in the city. KDV rolls in the Marigny and the French Quarter and has some of the carnival’s most creative handmade throws.
The relative newcomer krewedelusion follows KDV along the same route starting at 7 PM. This satirical parade krewe is comprised of “inner krewes” including the Guise of Fawkes, Krewe Dat 504 and Krewe du Seuss. The krewe’s slogan is “The People Shall Rule — Until a Suitable Replacement Can Be Found.” The theme is kept secret till the day of the parade. The new-ish inner krewe, The Trashformers, will collect unwanted beads, cans, plastic cups and other parade debris in the attempt to reduce the parade’s already pretty small carbon footprint.
Sunday, February 9, 2020
‘tit Rəx, 4:30 PM (Bywater, Marigny)
This micro-krewe parade is unique in a way that it takes an opposite approach to the super krewes competing to set records for the extravagance as well as the number of floats, riders and throws. Instead, this walking parade capped its float number years ago and focuses on all things small-scale.
All floats (around 35) have shoeboxes as their base, similar in concept to what the local kids make for school projects, but to a much more advanced degree of artistry. There were elaborate double-deckers in the past years, as well as puppets and even a helium balloon-powered float. The floats are hand-pulled by about 120 unmasked, formally dressed members. All throws are handmade and tend to be miniature in size (the bead throws, for example, are usually the size of a bracelet or smaller).
Over the years, the parade had acquired a loyal following, with the spectators setting up miniature scenes of dolls partying on ladders along the route. The parade is generally kid-friendly, although there’s an occasional raunchy take on the theme, and always a lot of political satire. The parade rolls in the Bywater and the Marigny, starting by the St. Roch Tavern and ending at the AllWays Lounge for the annual ball.
Friday, February 14, 2020
Krewe of Cork, 3:00 PM (French Quarter)
Oshun, followed by Cleopatra, Alla, 6:00 PM (Uptown)
The Krewe of Cork is a spirited walking parade contained to the French Quarter and dedicated, as you probably guessed, to wine and revelry. Krewe members don wine-themed costumes and dole out throws bearing the krewe’s grape logo. The “wine police” rides along in golf carts, and the parade’s Grand Marshal is a different vintner ever year.
The Krewe of Oshun is named for the Yoruba goddess of love and has 20 floats, led by the captain aboard a peacock float down the traditional Uptown parade route. The Baby Dolls march along, and throws include peacock figures and mugs.
Another Uptown parade on that day, the all-female Krewe of Cleopatra has 1,000 members and stunning floats. The Queen of the parade travels in her royal barge, and the parade is flanked by the pre- and post- celebration extravaganzas.
For over 80 years, the Krewe of Alla was all-male but now one of the city’s oldest parades is co-ed. Founded in Algiers in 1932, the krewe now parades Uptown. It’s also moved to a different day in 2020.
Saturday, February 15, 2020
Pontchartrain, followed by Choctaw and Freret, 1:00 PM (Uptown)
Sparta, followed by Pygmalion, 5:30 PM (Uptown)
Things will be heating up on that Saturday with no less than five parades, all rolling Uptown and starting with the memorable floats of Krewe of Pontchartrain, including a huge crawfish named Mr. Mudbug and the giant fish named The Super Grouper. The co-ed Krewe of Freret, resurrected in 2011 since the mid-1990s thanks to some enthusiastic Loyola alumni, will again feature hand-decorated masks the members create themselves.
The Knights of Sparta, an all-male krewe, is known for the elaborate masks and Spartan helmets. Look for out for the medallion beads, doubloons, and the annual mystery throw. Post-parade, the party goes on at the Pygmalion Fest at Generations Hall.
Sunday, February 16, 2020
Femme Fatale, followed by Carrollton, King Arthur, 11:00 AM (Uptown)
Barkus, 2:00 PM (French Quarter)
Come catch Mystic Krewe of Femme Fatale‘s signature throw, a mirrored compact, along with the 2020 theme bead, Femme dolls, stuffed lips, and lipsticks. The Krewe of Carrollton is the fourth oldest Carnival parading organization, behind Rex, Proteus, and Zulu. Special throws include medallion beads and decorated shrimp boots.
The 50-plus float King Arthur parade featured the krewe’s first ever three-tandem float in 2019. Throws include hand-decorated grails, King and Queen medallion beads, and the King Arthur Toy Army.
The Mystic Krewe of Barkus belongs to the man’s best friend, with a focus on the seemingly endless procession of costume-clad, mostly well-behaved dogs escorted by their humans. The king and queen are, naturally, canine.
Wednesday, February 19, 2020
Druids, followed by Nyx, 6:30 PM (Uptown)
The Krewe of Druids pay homage to the priests of ancient Celtic societies and is led by the king, the Archdruid. It’s a unique parade in a way that its 200 members belong to other Carnival organizations, so it’s a parade-only krewe. Member identities are never revealed, and the krewe doesn’t have the traditional royalty.
The Mystic Krewe of Nyx is one of the city’s largest all-women’s Mardi Gras krewes and most diverse. The parade’s signature colors are hot pink and black, and you might be lucky enough to catch the signature throw, a hand-decorated purse. Past Nyx Goddesses includes New Orleans’ notable women like Chef Susan Spicer, Peggy Lee and Irma Thomas, the Soul Queen of New Orleans.
Thursday, February 20, 2020
Parades cancelled
Friday, February 21, 2020
Krewe of Bosom Buddies, 11:30 AM
The Krewe of Bosom Buddies & Breast Friends is a walking krewe that parades in the French Quarter on the Friday before Mardi Gras. The parade starts and ends on Bourbon St., and the krewe is usually dressed in tutus, bras and hats that reflect that year’s theme. The signature throw is a hand-decorated bra. The parade is raucous fun for sure, so we won’t call it 100 percent kid-friendly. Starting at noon, also on Bourbon Street, the all-female walking Krewe of Crescent City Dames will also hit the French Quarter. This krewe’s signature item is an elaborately beaded corset.
Muses, Knights of Babylon, 4:45 PM (Uptown)
The Knights of Babylon goes back to 1939 and honor the Carnival traditions by using the flambeaux and the floats with the same designs as decades ago. The king’s float is still drawn by a mule. Babylon’s 200 knights are led by their king, Sargon, whose identity is not revealed to the public. Babylon’s theme is also kept secret till the day of the parade. Similarly, the satirical Chaos also doesn’t reveal the king’s identity or the parade theme ahead of time. The all-male krewe counts 200 members.
The Krewe of Muses is one of the Carnival’s most popular parades thanks to its dazzling floats, top-notch marching bands, and bitingly humorous themes. The cup throw bears the design of the annual contest winner among the local school children. The winner also gets to ride as a guest of the krewe. Look for the iconic shoe float with this year’s honorary muse (usually a celebrity), and see if you can catch one of the most coveted throws of the Carnival season, the hand-decorated Muses shoe. Each shoe is a one-of-a-kind piece of art, and some parade-goers would stop at very little to score one.
Hermes, followed by d’Etat and Morpheus, 5:30 PM (Uptown)
The Knights of Hermes has been around since the Great Depression and was one of the first parades to mobilize after Katrina. About 700 male riders are led by their captain clad in full regalia and riding white horse.
The satirical Le Krewe d’Etat traditionally follows Hermes with 21 floats plus its Captain and officers on horseback. The theme is secret until parade day. Look for members of the krewe dressed as walking skeletons handing out the D’Etat Gazette and wooden doubloons. The Gazette has illustrations and descriptions of the floats and is only available during the parade. Another covetable throw is the blinking logo skull bead.
The Krewe of Morpheus parade is a jaw-dropping spectacle with about 500 riders and beautifully illuminated floats.
Saturday, February 22, 2020
Iris, followed by Tucks, 11:00 AM (Uptown)
Endymion, 4:15 PM (Mid-City, Downtown)
Amazingly, the Krewe of Iris has been around since 1917, making it the oldest female Carnival organization for women. Iris’ 1,500 members wear white gloves and masks, and the parade features such unique throws as king cake babies and hand-decorated sunglasses. The Krewe of Tucks was started in 1969 by a group of Loyola students and is named after of the now-gone Uptown pub. Tucks is known for satirical floats and irreverence (one of the signature floats, for example, is a giant toilet).
These days Krewe of Endymion is the only super krewe parade that graces Mid-City, and people camp out for days in advance staking their spots. While we won’t comment on that, we certainly understand the reasons for the parade’s immense popularity. With a whopping 3,100 riders and 37 floats (many are tandem units with up to nine sections!), plus celebrity guests and the big-name bands, Endymion is an amazing spectacle. It also helps that the riders are notoriously generous with beads (the krewe’s motto is “Throw ’til It Hurts”), and the event kicks off at noon with a huge block party on Orleans Avenue, Samedi Gras. Starting in 2019, the floats were pulled by new tractors with automatic transmissions, to reduce the lurching. From Mid-City the parade makes its way to Lee Circle, ending up at the Champions Square and finally inside the Superdome for some serious partying at the Endymion Extravaganza.
Sunday, February 23, 2020
Okeanos, followed by Mid-City and Thoth, 11:00 AM (Uptown)
Bacchus, 5 PM
Founded in 1949, the Krewe of Okeanos was originally a neighborhood parade on St. Claude Avenue but eventually moved to a traditional Uptown/Downtown route on St. Charles Avenue. Okeanos has about 250 riders. Notably, instead of the traditional bal masque the krewe hosts a coronation ball where the king is presented and the queen is selected by random draw.
The Krewe of Mid-City also dates back a while, to 1933, and consists of 300 all-male members. The parade has a unique look featuring tinfoil as well as animation, and is known to rock themes irresistible to children. The king and queen are kids selected each year from the local Ronald McDonald House.
Thoth, founded in 1947, had been following its own parade route designed to pass several healthcare institutions that care for people with disabilities and illnesses (thus bringing the Carnival to those who otherwise wouldn’t be likely to see the parades rolling elsewhere). The krewe is known to throw generously, and has 1,600 riders on its 50 floats. It’s one of the highlights of the Carnival.
Box of Wine is a walking parade that rolls between Thoth and Bacchus, whenever the police escort gives a green light, from a secret location that changes every year. It follows the Bacchus route but you won’t mistake it for any other Uptown parade. It is decidedly its own animal, in all its artsy, bohemian glory. Satire and the god of wine rule; and the joyful, rowdy procession of revelers clad in some of the most creative costumes you’ll see during the Carnival generously pours from boxes of wine the participants all carry for the onlookers lined up to see Bacchus — into the cups, or straight into the mouths.
The last treat of the Sunday before Mardi Gras is the unmatched super-krewe parade, Bacchus. Bacchus was the first parade to invite a celebrity king to lead the parade, breaking with the Carnival tradition. Expect spectacular animated super-floats and covetable throws. Look for the Bacchus’ signature floats like its Kong Family and the Baccha-gator. The massive parade ends at the Convention Center for its annual black-tie Rendezvous party.
Monday, February 24, 2020 (Lundi Gras)
Proteus, followed by Orpheus, 5:15 PM (Uptown)
Red Beans/Dead Beans, 2 PM (Marigny/Bayou St. John, Tremé)
The Krewe of Proteus is the second-oldest krewe in Carnival history, founded in 1882. Unbelievably, the floats still use the original chassis. The identity of the king of the parade is never revealed to the public. The kings traditionally ride in a giant seashell float; throws include pearl bead necklaces and plastic tridents.
Krewe of Orpheus was co-founded by musician/actor Harry Connick, Jr. and his father, Harry Connick, Sr., former New Orleans district attorney. It was the first super krewe to include both male and female riders, and it’s considered one of the most beautiful parades of the season.
The floats are elaborately designed and decorated with oversized flowers and fiber optic lighting. Covetable throws include light-up medallion beads and stuffed dragons. Like Bacchus, Orpheus ends at the Convention Center for its black-tie ball, and invites celebrities to reign as parade royalty.
A family-friendly, quirky Red Beans parade of revelers clad in costumes that are decorated with (and sometimes, made of) dried red beans started in 2008 and traditionally rolls on Lundi Gras. There’s also a slew of outfits that celebrate Louisiana folklore and food. This highly participatory walking parade of about 150 members winds from the Marigny into the Tremé, where it meets up with the newcomer Dead Beans. Formed in 2018 as a Red Beans spin-off, Dead Beans walks from the Bayou St. John neighborhood in Mid-City.
Tuesday, February 25, 2020
Parades: Zulu, 8:00 AM (Uptown, Tremé)
Rex, followed by Elks, and Crescent City, 10 AM (Uptown)
Society of St. Ann/Society of St. Cecilia, 9 AM (Bywater/Marigny/French Quarter)
The Krewe of Zulu parade begins bright and early on Mardi Gras Day at S. Claiborne and Jackson avenues, weaving its way down St. Charles Avenue to Lee Circle, then to Canal Street, and ending up at Broad and Orleans streets. It’s probably best to watch it towards the end of the parade, in Tremé. Wherever you end up, however, Zulu is not to be missed. One of the oldest Carnival parades in the city, Zulu dates back to the early 1900s. Louis Armstrong reigned as its King in 1949.
Zulu’s traditional honor guard, the Soulful Warriors, has a roster of characters that make an appearance each year, including Big Shot, Witch Doctor, Ambassador, Mayor, Province Prince, Governor, and Mr. Big Stuff. One of the most covetable throws of the Carnival is Zulu’s hand-painted, glitzed up coconut. The parade is preceded by the coronation ball on Friday, February 21, 2020, at the Convention Center.
Rex, the King of Carnival, is the mothership of many Mardi Gras traditions, like doubloon throws and even the official Carnival colors of purple, green and gold. The parade was founded in 1872, apparently to impress the visiting Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia. Today the parade traditionally follows Zulu on Fat Tuesday, and consists of 600 male riders. The king’s identity is kept secret until Lundi Gras, and it’s usually a civic leader and important citizen of New Orleans. Traditionally, the city mayor hands Rex a symbolic key to the city on Lundi Gras, and Rex royalty meets the Zulu royalty.
The Krewe of Elks-Orleans, the oldest and largest of all the truck float krewes, follows Rex down St. Charles Ave with 50 individually designed truck floats carrying 4,600 male and female riders. The last parade of the Carnival, the Krewe of Crescent City, is also a truck parade. It follows Elks, signaling the beginning of the end of the Carnival.
If you want to see some very impressive costumes look for the Society of St Anne walking parade. The members gather in the Bywater around Piety St. and Burgundy St., and usually roll around 9 AM or so, through the Marigny and the Quarter to the Mississippi River, with many stops on the way. The route isn’t set in stone but you can look for them around 10 AM in the Marigny by Mimi’s; the R Bar, also in the Marigny, is also a regular stop at a later time.
Since the parade’s inception in the late 1960s the members would pay tribute to those who had passed away in the preceding year at the river, by depositing their ashes in the water, making offerings, and so on.
Along the lines of the St. Anne Society, the Society of St. Cecilia, which started marching in 2007, also walks from the Bywater around the same time to the river. The two processions inevitably merge at some point, then scatter, and are organically joined by the fellow revelers. Both parades are a fabulous sight and are among some of the best things about Mardi Gras in New Orleans.
Are you coming to New Orleans for the Carnival? Browse our top recommendations for the historic hotels in the French Quarter at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels to find your perfect spot.
Happy Mardi Gras!
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Bayou Bacchanal
Photo courtesy of Bayou Bacchanal on Facebook
We know, fall in New Orleans is packed with festivals, but please make room for this fabulous annual fest that pays homage to Caribbean culture and heritage right here in the Crescent City. The Caribbean islands nations and New Orleans have had ties for centuries, and, besides, just like the vibrant countries of the Caribbean, the city also knows a thing or two about throwing a serious Carnival party, complete with costumes, live music, amazing food, and, of course, a parade.
Bayou Bacchanal is presented by the Friends of Culture organization, which provides a cultural link between the Greater New Orleans area and the island nations of the Caribbean. The fest will be held over two days, on Friday-Saturday, November 1 and 2, 2024.
The fest opens on Friday, November 1, with an Wear White Dance party at Ashé Cultural Arts Center (1731 Baronne Street). Doors open at 11 p.m., and the attendees are encouraged to don all-white outfits. You can buy tickets online ($20-$25) or at the door ($30).
The main event falls on the next day, Saturday, November 2, from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., at Congo Square in Louis Armstrong Park. The extravaganza starts with a parade. Attendees are invited to bring their families, don costumes, and join in on the fun. Marching bands and dance troupes will lead the procession, playing Soca, Dancehall and Reggae. The annual Bayou Bacchanal Parade is free and open to the public.
Once the celebration reaches the park, the fun will continue with live performances (highlighting Caribbean artists and DJs), dancing, a costume competition, and dozens of Caribbean food vendors doling out the delicious flavors of the island nations. Expect to sample such staples as jerk chicken, saltfish, roti, and curry goat and chicken. You can wash it all down with ginger beer or passionfruit juice, or any number of the delicious concoctions that will be available throughout fest grounds.
Immerse yourself into the Caribbean culture and party till the sun goes down (and beyond) at this lively festival!
Are you planning to visit New Orleans this fall?
The weather is mild, and we’ve got a fabulous lineup of festivals that celebrate the Crescent City’s unique culture and every food and drink imaginable. Visit FrenchQuarter.com/hotels to find your perfect historic French Quarter hotel that will put you right in the center of all of the action and within walking distance to many of New Orleans’ bars, restaurants and entertainment spots. Be in that number!
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The Who Dat Nation Rally & Music Festival
How about a massive three-day festival to get ready for the upcoming NFL season? Saints fans can rally for the team at what will be the area’s largest pre-game party, the first of its kind. You can join the black-and-gold diehards on the weekend leading to the Saints’ season opener on Monday, September 9, against the Houston Texans at the grounds of the Jefferson Performing Arts Center in Metairie, not far from the team’s practice facility on Airline Drive. Here’s the rundown of the festival’s main events, which include a free concert on Friday and two days filled with food, music, rallies, and even a dog parade, on Friday-Sunday, September 6-8.
What: A Tribute to New Orleans Music Legends
When: Friday, September 6, 5-10 p.m.
Where: On the grounds of the Jefferson Performing Arts Center (6400 Airline Dr., Metairie)
Cost: Free (suggested donation $10)
The Who Dat Rally & Music Festival will kick off on Friday, September 6, with a special tribute to the New Orleans Music Legends (presented by the Maple Leaf Bar). Art Neville, Fats Domino, Dave Bartholomew, Dr. John, and Allen Toussaint will all be remembered by the tribute’s participants, whose lineup also has a few legends on its own, including Irma Thomas, Deacon John, and John “Papa” Gros.
The gates will open at 5 p.m., and the music will start at 6 p.m. The James Andrews band plays a special set of New Orleans classics at 7 p.m., and the tribute will kick off at 8 p.m. Tickets are not required, and the event is free though there’s a suggested donation of $10, with all donations benefiting the New Orleans Musician Clinic.
What: The Who Dat Nation Rally & Music Festival
When: Saturday, September 7 (noon – 10 p.m.) – Sunday, September 8 (11 a.m. – 9 p.m.)
Where: On the grounds of the Jefferson Performing Arts Center
Cost: $30-$45 adults; $10-$15 kids
The Rally & Fest continues with a weekend of music on three stages, food, and arts and crafts. A whopping 18 bands are scheduled to perform, including Blood Sweat & Tears, The Guess Who, the Family Stone, George Porter Jr., Cowboy Mouth, Lost Bayou Ramblers, Honey Island Swamp Band, All for One Brass Band, and many more (see the full schedule here).
Then there’s a massive Who Dat Nation pep rally, led by WWL Radio’s Bobby Hebert on-stage along with special guests on both nights. Hebert, by the way, is encouraging Who Dat fans to come dressed as a blind referee.
No fest is complete with food and beverages. Over a dozen restaurants, including Voleo’s Seafood, Copeland’s and Southern Snoball, will be on hand doling traditional New Orleans favorites.
Saturday will kick off with the Who Dat Nation Krewe of Paws Parade and Costume Contest. Judges will pick the best male and female pet costumes at noon, and the parade will begin at 12:30 p.m., led by the All for One Brass Band. You can register on-site for both the costume and the parade.
The kids can check out a Bounce Park specifically set up for the fest in the Children’s Village area. The Greater New Orleans Therapeutic Riding Center is also bringing several horses to interact with the children (no horseback rides though).
Tickets are on sale now, starting at $30 for a one-day, adult general admission ticket and $10 for a one-day ticket for kids 13 to 18 years old. Two-day passes are $45 for adults and $15 for kids.
What: The Guess Who and Blood Sweat & Tears VIP performances
When: Saturday, September 7, 5:30 p.m. (The Guess Who); Sunday, September 8, 5 p.m. (Blood Sweat & Tears)
Where: Jefferson Performing Arts Center Performance Hall
Cost: $60-$90
The two performances by the headlining The Guess Who and Blood Sweat & Tears will take place in the JPAC Performance Hall and require a VIP ticket. Tickets for The Guess Who range from $80 to $90, while tickets for Blood Sweat & Tears range from $60 to $90.
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Boudin, Bourbon, & Beer!
Photo courtesy of Emeril Lagasse Foundation on Facebook
Every November celebrity chef Emeril Lagasse invites scores of top local and national chefs to join him for his one-night fundraiser featuring a specially curated, Louisiana-inspired menu, live music and open bar. Last year the event has attracted over 5,000 guests. This year will be more of the same, with over 70 chefs participating in the 9th annual Boudin, Bourbon & Beer Festival on Friday, November 8, 6-10:30 p.m. The fundraiser will be again held at Champions Square (Lasalle St.), an outdoor festival plaza located adjacent to the Mercedes-Benz Superdome.
Lagasse chairs the event with James Beard award-winning chefs Donald Link and his business partner, Stephen Stryjewski, of the Link Restaurant Group (the company owns a family of restaurants, currently including Herbsaint, Cochon, Cochon Butcher, Calcasieu, Peche Seafood Grill, and La Boulangerie). Each year a celebrity chef is also invited to co-chair. TV host and restaurateur Guy Fieri was co-chair in 2018, and this year it’s going to be the celebrated chef and TV personality Aarón Sánchez.
The participating chef list is an impressive who-is-who on both local and national levels. In the past, the New Orleans chefs included Commander’s Palace Tory McPhail, Nina Compton of Compere Lapin and Bywater American Bistro, Isaac Toups of Toups Meatery and Toups South, Chris Borges of Josephine Estelle, and many more.
Visiting chefs hail from all over, from the Gulf South to West Coast to the Midwest, representing some of the best restaurants across the country. The chefs will once again be creating their dishes during the event and mingling with the attendees. For a full list of featured chefs and the menu updates, visit the event’s website. The chef lineup and the menu are usually announced in September.
Photo courtesy of Emeril Lagasse Foundation on Facebook
In addition to the culinary spread, look for the Nat Sherman’s cigar lounge, a merch tent, and dessert tasting stations. Several open-bar stations with be stocked with premium spirits like bourbon cocktails from Buffalo Trace, and a variety of Abita beer. This year’s sponsors will also make their product available, including FIJI water, and the fine wines from JUSTIN Vineyards & Winery and Landmark Vineyards.
The music lineup is always solid at this event, so get ready to dance. Past performers included Honey Island Swamp Band, surf rock singer-songwriter Donavon Frankenreiter, bluegrass/Americana band Railroad Earth, and the country musician Lillie Mae.
Tickets typically go on sale in August and are available here ($135). They include unlimited food, open bar, cigars, and access to the auction and featured entertainment. The fundraiser benefits Emeril Lagasse Foundation, which focuses on culinary education, nutrition and arts programs. Please note that this event is 21+ only.
Boudin, Bourbon & Beer kicks off the Foundation’s two-night signature fundraising weekend and is followed on Saturday, November 9, by the wine auction and black-tie gala, Carnivale du Vin, now in its 15th year.
Where to stay
To enjoy the best of the Boudin, Bourbon & Beer this November, consider booking one of the boutique hotels in the French Quarter or Arts District. These historic neighborhoods are ideally situated within a short ride to Champions Square. Book a room at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels to have the best of the Crescent City and this unique culinary event at your fingertips.
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Don’t Miss the New Orleans Mac N Cheese Fest
Photo courtesy of NOLA Mac N Cheese Fest on Facebook
Why mac ‘n’ cheese, you ask? If we can throw a festival for a Creole tomato or pretty much every type of seafood swimming in the Gulf, why not celebrate this quintessential American dish?
The rest of the country has been honoring mac ‘n’ cheese with its own festival in places like California and New Mexico. Baton Rouge has one, and Chicago’s version is enormous, for example. Believe it or not, there wasn’t one in New Orleans until two years ago, but it looks like there’s always room for another food festival in our city.
New Orleans will be holding its third Mac N Cheese Fest on Saturday, October 12, from 11 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., at the Louis Armstrong Park (701 N. Rampart St.). The sprawling park in Tremé sees its share of festivals, and it’s a perfect location because of its size and proximity to the French Quarter.
The fest is free and kid-friendly. It will feature dozens of mac ‘n’ cheese dishes from Louisiana restaurants, pop-ups and food catering businesses. You can buy food and drink tickets by the main entrance on the day of the fest.
This year, festival organizers are increasing the number of participating vendors yet again to accommodate the fest’s growing popularity. The inaugural festival was such a success several vendors even ran out of their offerings before the day was over. The organizers were working hard to ensure it didn’t happen last year. Last year, each vendor was set up to accommodate two lines of customers, serving at least one mac ‘n’ cheese dish, plus up to five non-mac items.
In the past, the vendor lineup included The Big Cheesy, a popular local grilled cheese restaurant with locations in Kenner and Uptown, House of Blues Restaurant & Bar, and Manning’s Sports Bar & Grill at Harrah’s, and French Quarter’s seafood mainstay Oceana Grill were represented last year.
The mac ‘n’ cheese dishes will be judged by a panel of professional and celebrity judges to select the best mac ‘n’ cheese in the city. Past winners included the local BBQ pop-up Gonzo’s Smokehouse & BBQ, in 2017, for its brisket mac ‘n’ cheese; and Uptown’s Superior Seafood & Oyster Bar last year, for its crawfish version of mac ‘n’ cheese.
New this year is the introduction of the Artist Market. This year will also be the start of a new festival tradition, the NOLA Mac n’ Cheese Eating Contest. The brave souls (with iron stomachs) will compete for the honor of earning the title of the New Orleans’ Biggest Mac n’ Cheese Fan.
The live music lineup is scheduled for the whole duration of the festival. Visit the festival’s website and Facebook page for the updates on the vendor and music lineup and the unveiling of this year’s roster of judges.
A portion of proceeds from the event will benefit Special Olympics Louisiana, which will be at the Fest hosting the Unified Play Area. Bring the whole family!
Looking for somewhere to stay during your visit to New Orleans this fall? Find your perfect historic French Quarter hotel at FrenchQuarter.com/hotels.
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How to Dress for Voodoo Music + Arts Experience
Photo courtesy of Voodoo Music + Arts Experience
Dressing for music festivals is always a challenge. How do you strike the perfect note between practical and Instagram-perfect? Throw unpredictable weather and Halloween into the mix, and you have a recipe for one of the most daunting wardrobe events ever. That’s why research, preparation and weather apps are your best friends when it comes to dressing for Voodoo Music +Arts Experience. Follow this advice, dress for fun and comfort!
Lovely layers
At Jazz Fest, you pretty much know what kind of weather to expect: hot and humid. However, the weather in late October can vacillate between warm and muggy to wet and rainy to cold and windy—sometimes all in one day. Check the weather reports beforehand and prepare accordingly.
Layers are your best friend, but they needn’t be boring and utilitarian—they can make a statement that’s all their own. Tie a flannel around your waist during the day and layer it under a moto jacket at night. Or bring a scarf that can double as a blanket or head wrap. You’ll be glad you have these multitasking pieces when the sun goes down and a chill sets in.
Comfortable shoes
Voodoo sprawls across 50 beautiful, wooded acres of City Park. Whether you’re trekking from your parking spot to the front gate, standing in line at the amusement rides or staking out a prime spot by the main stage, you’ll be on your feet for hours on end. Do yourself a favor and opt for comfy, sturdy footwear. Sneakers, boots and comfy flats are all solid options. (Bonus pointed for studded, fringed, or equally bad-ass looking footwear with a rock-star vibe.)
Make rain plans
Unless there’s a serious deluge (as was the case in 2015), Voodoo is a rain-or-shine event. Bring a poncho—they’re a lot more crowd-friendly than umbrellas. In a pinch, you can rip arm and neck holes in a garbage bag and wear that. As far as footwear, you can’t go wrong with galoshes or shrimp boots. Grassy meadows turn to mud when it rains, and you’ll see at least one sad, solitary flip-flop surrendered to the muck.
Costumes
Voodoo takes place Halloween weekend (this year, it’s Oct. 25-27, 2019), which means New Orleanians seize upon the event as an excuse to costume. Don’t be afraid to get decked out. At least half of the crowd will be costumed, especially on Voodoo’s final day.
If it’s cold, try layering fleece tights under your costume, or add a coat that complements your look and has some pizzazz. (Colorful vintage versions, shaggy faux fur boleros or classic pea coats can all look great and enhance a costume, depending on what you’re going for.). In the event of inclement weather, accessories like wigs and headpieces are your best friends. They look festive, and they keep your head warm and dry. Face paint, glitter, horns and wings are other fantastic accessories—but if you forgot to pack Halloween pieces, keep in mind that some vendors may sell them at the merch tables.
Hope that helps—and see you at Voodoo!
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New Orleans Burlesque Festival, September 13-14, 2019
Photo by Darrell Miller. Courtesy of New Orleans Burlesque Festival.
If you’re in town during the second weekend of September, check out the annual Burlesque Festival, an international event that brings together the best of local talent and some big international names. Dancers, emcees, comics, singers, and variety-act performers.
Photo by Darrell Miller. Courtesy of New Orleans Burlesque Festival.
Burlesque was one of the main attractions in the French Quarter in the 1940s-60s, featuring the largest concentration of burlesque clubs than anywhere in the country. It’s made Bourbon Street famous and launched many careers. Some of the most famous burlesque dancers to this day have performed in clubs on Bourbon Street — Evangeline the Oyster Girl, Lily Christine the Cat Girl, Blaze Starr. It’s only fitting that New Orleans is now the epicenter of the modern-day burlesque revival, with this festival carrying on the tradition of the golden age of burlesque since 2009.
Photo by Darrell Miller. Courtesy of New Orleans Burlesque Festival.
Events will be held at House of Blues. Check the festival’s Facebook page for more details and updates or by visiting neworleansburlesquefest.com.
